Climbing technique and physiology
Climbing technique and physiology, explained with the research and something you can move.
Each deep dive starts in plain words, gives a memory hook to use on the wall, and labels every claim: measured in a cited study, common coaching practice, or a simplified model made for this site.
Grip hard and the blood supply to the forearm stops. Let go and it refills, fast at first and then slower. Move the sliders and watch it happen.
Read Where the energy comes fromThe three energy systems of a climbAerobic, phosphocreatine and glycolytic: the measured share of each on easy, moderate and hard routes.
Read The sustainable lineCritical force: the line between sustainable and notBelow critical force a reserve refills; above it the reserve drains. Why it predicts sport climbing ability.
ReadThe quick notes cover every topic on one page.
The section map at the top shows what's inside, and the evidence labels show how sure each claim is.
Each model links to a drill or a scenario to take to the wall.
Start here
Every topic on one page, how to read a route, and what the evidence labels mean.
Energy management
Where the energy for a climb comes from, why rests work, and how long to stay.
Holds and how to use them safely
Hold types, grip positions and the load each puts on the fingers.
Resting positions
Body positions that take weight off the arms, and how to decide whether to stay.
Movement and body position
Feet, flags, twists, straight arms and clipping.
Scenarios
A situation on the wall, two or three choices, and what each one costs.
Drills
One page per drill: goal, how, what to measure, dose.
Research library
Every cited study: who was tested, the numbers used here, and the limits.