Rest-hold refill: switch and shake low

#How

1. On an easy route or traverse with a good rest hold, climb until you feel a moderate pump (not a full one).
2. Settle into the best position: straight arm, hips in, a leg rest if there is one.
3. Shake one hand low beside the body for 5–10 s while the other holds lightly; swap.
4. Each round, ask yourself whether you're still getting better. Leave when it stops improving.
5. Repeat on a worse hold and notice how quickly recovery flattens.

#What to measure

• Seconds until the pump stops easing, on a good and a poor hold.
• Pump before and after, on a 0–10 feeling scale.

Write it down on the log sheet.

#Dose

3–4 rests per session, inside normal climbing. Stop well before full pump.

#The evidence

• Coaching practice This drill and its dose are common coaching practice; no study in the research pack tested them.
• See Shaking: arm position and rhythm for the background and the measured numbers behind it.

Important

Climb within your experience, with a qualified instructor or experienced partner for anything roped. Young climbers: no campus board or added-weight versions of any drill, and stop at any finger pain.