Drills Read
Drills
One page per drill: the goal, how to do it, what to measure and how much to do. None of them uses a fingerboard, a campus board or added weight.
1 min read
3 sections
How to use the drills
Pick one or two per session
, usually inside your normal climbing or warm-up.
Measure something simple
each time and write it on the log sheet.
Climb within your experience
roped drills need a qualified instructor or an experienced partner.
ImportantYoung climbers: no campus boards, no added weight, and stop at any finger pain. See growth plates.
All drills
| Drill | What it trains | Background |
|---|---|---|
| Route preview | Reading and planning | Reading a route |
| Rest-hold refill | Resting | Shaking |
| Go-or-stay countdown | Rest decisions | Is this hold a rest? |
| Silent feet | Footwork | Footwork |
| Straight-arm traverse | Economy | Straight-arm hang |
| Flag and twist ladder | Body position | Footwork |
| Clip positions on top rope | Clipping | Clipping |
| Reverse three moves | Reversing | Misread sequence |
| Timed route pacing | Pacing | Pacing a timed route |
The evidence
- Coaching practice All drills and doses on these pages are common coaching practice. The research behind each topic is on the linked background page and in the research library.