Footwork, flagging, twisting, straight arms
Good movement puts weight on your feet and keeps your arms straight. Flags and twists are the tools that make that possible when the holds don't line up.
In plain words
Your feet should carry as much of your weight as the wall allows. Look at the foothold, place your foot quietly and precisely, then stand up on it. When the next hand is out to the side, a flag (a free leg pushed out as a counterweight) stops you swinging away. A twist (turning a hip into the wall) lets you reach further with a straight arm. Straight arms keep the effort in your legs and skeleton, not your biceps.
Memory hookQuiet feet, straight arms, turn the hip to reach.
The moves
Feet first
most slips come from looking away too early.
a silent foot is a precise foot.
the big-toe edge gives the most precise contact.
then reach from the legs, not by pulling with the arms.
Flag and twist
Free leg out to the side or behind as a counterweight, so you don't swing off a side hold. Pick the flag side that puts your weight under the holding hand.
Turn the hip on the reaching side into the wall. You reach further with a straighter arm, and pull less.
Hang from straight arms between moves, and push with the legs to move up.
The evidence
- Coaching practice Everything on this page is standard technique teaching. We found no study in the research pack that measured flagging or twisting.
- Measured Efficient movement matters to energy cost: on the same easy route, elite climbers spent about a third less energy than recreational climbers (40.3 vs 60.1 kJ). Bertuzzi et al. 2007: 6 elite and 7 recreational adult climbers. Eur J Appl Physiol 101(3):293–300. The study didn't separate footwork from other technique.
- Measured Less weight on the hands means a lighter grip and more blood flow: flow is cut off at roughly 45–75 % of maximum grip (Barnes 1980, cited by MacLeod et al. 2007; adults).
Try it
Common mistakes
watch the foot onto the hold.
push with the legs.
if you swing open, try the other leg.
turning a hip in often makes a long reach easy.