How to read this site: evidence labels explained
Every claim in "The evidence" carries one of three labels, so you can see at a glance how sure we are and where the claim comes from.
In plain words
Some things on this site were measured in a study. Some are what coaches commonly teach, even though nobody has measured them. And some come from the simple models behind the sliders, made to explain an idea, not to predict your climbing. Each claim says which one it is. Measured numbers also say who was measured: how many people, their level, and that they were adults.
Memory hookMeasured, practised or modelled: check the label before you trust the number.
The three labels
Measured
Measured The claim comes from a cited, published study, and the number is the one the study reported. The study is listed in the research library with its sample, who was tested and its limits.
a number from 11 elite adult men doesn't automatically apply to a beginner, and adult numbers never apply to children.
means a measure lined up with 61 % of the differences between people in that study. It doesn't mean it causes 61 % of performance.
Coaching practice
Coaching practice Common advice from climbing coaching that we haven't found a study for. It may well be good advice, but it isn't measured. All technique tips not covered by the research pack carry this label.
Model
Model A simplification made for this site, usually behind an interactive chart. Models show how an idea works; their numbers are illustrations. Every model shows a "Model, not measurement" note and links to its assumptions.
How the pages are built
The numbered list at the top of each deep dive.
A short version a newcomer can follow.
One phrase to remember on the wall.
How it works, with diagrams and models.
Every claim labelled, with numbers, who was measured and the source.
A drill or scenario to take to the wall.
What usually goes wrong.
The evidence
- Coaching practice This page describes how the site is written; it makes no claims about climbing.
- Model The interactive charts are models; each one lists its assumptions on the page where it appears.
- Measured Every measured number links to its study, and the research library lists all of them.
Try it
Common mistakes
the sliders show how an idea works, not what you will do.
none of the adult values on this site apply to growing climbers.
unmeasured isn't the same as wrong. It means the evidence is weaker.