Jugs, edges, slopers, pinches, pockets, underclings, side pulls and gastons
Each kind of hold works best when you pull in one particular direction. Read the direction first, then set your body so your weight pulls that way.
In plain words
A hold isn't just big or small. It has a direction. A jug or an edge wants you to pull down. An undercling wants you to pull up while your feet push. A side pull wants you to lean away, and a gaston wants you to push out like opening a sliding door. A sloper has no edge at all and works through friction, so your arm should hang low and your hips should sit under it. Once you see the direction, you can put your body where the hold works best and grip less.
Memory hookFind the direction, then put your weight on the other end of it.
The eight hold types
Arrows show the direction of pull. All drawings are simplified line drawings made for this site.
Matching body position to the hold
Pull down. Keep the arm straight when you can and the hips close to the wall.
Friction hold: open hand, arm low, hips under the hold. Pulling outward makes it slip.
Thumb against fingers. Squeezing harder than needed tires the forearm faster.
Use the strongest fingers that fit (often middle and ring). Single-finger pockets load one finger's pulleys heavily.
Pull up while the feet push. Works best with the hold at chest or waist height and the feet high.
Lean away from it. Your body weight does the pulling.
Push outward, elbow up and out. Hard to hold for long; move through it quickly.
The evidence
- Coaching practice The body positions above are standard teaching. We found no study that measured them hold by hold.
- Measured How hard you grip changes the forearm's blood supply: flow is cut off at roughly 45–75 % of maximum grip (Barnes 1980, cited by MacLeod et al. 2007; adults). A position that lets you grip less leaves more blood flowing.
- Measured Grip position changes finger loading a lot. See grip positions for the crimp and open-hand numbers.
Try it
Flag and twist ladder. Practise turning the body to match the hold.
Silent feet. Good feet take weight off every hold type.
Common mistakes
side pulls, gastons and underclings only work in their own direction.
slopers rely on friction. Open the hand and lower the arm.
grip just enough. Extra squeeze costs forearm oxygen.
one finger takes the whole load, so it's a common way to strain a pulley.